The sight of Penelope Cruz, in Broken Embraces, locked in a loving clinch on
windswept El Golfo beach is enough to make many people rethink their idea of
Lanzarote, a Spanish island more often associated with time-share touts and
package tourism. While the small pockets of development around its main
resorts, Puerto del Carmen, Playa Blanca and Costa Teguise, attract the bulk
of British holidaymakers and many of the 6,000 expats from the UK who live
on the island, you need drive for only a few minutes to reach a world of
whitewashed houses and volcanic expanses that prompted Pedro Almodovar, the
film’s director, to enthuse about the island’s “sombre, monochrome beauty”.
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